Garden Strawberry

What you'll need:

Strawberry plants or seeds (you can find them at garden centers or online)

A pot, hanging basket, or a patch in your garden

Good-quality soil that drains well (strawberries don’t like soggy roots!)

Compost or organic matter to enrich the soil

Mulch (straw, pine needles, or even shredded leaves)

When to start:

Strawberries love cool weather, so early spring is ideal for planting. If you're starting with seeds, you can begin indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last frost. But if you’re using young strawberry plants, wait until after the last frost when the soil has warmed up a bit.

Choosing the right spot:

Strawberries need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily, so pick a sunny spot in your garden or on your balcony. They also prefer slightly acidic soil (similar to blueberries), but regular garden soil mixed with compost works fine too!

Tip: Strawberries spread by sending out runners, so give them space to grow. If you’re planting in pots, make sure they have drainage holes.

If you have seeds:

1. Start indoors by sprinkling seeds on top of moist soil (don’t bury them deep; strawberries need light to germinate).
2. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep moisture in.
3. Place it in a sunny spot, and wait about 2-3 weeks for the seeds to sprout.
4. Once the seedlings have grown a few leaves, you can move them to individual small pots.
5. Transplant them outdoors when the weather warms up and they’re strong enough.

If you have young plants:

1. Dig a hole just deep enough for the roots to fit comfortably.
2. Make sure the crown (the part where the leaves meet the roots) is level with the soil surface—don’t bury it too deep!
3. Space each plant about 12-18 inches apart if planting in the ground.
4. Water thoroughly after planting.

For containers or hanging baskets: You can plant strawberries closer together since their roots won’t spread as much. Just make sure there’s enough room for air circulation to prevent mold.

Pro tip: After planting, add a layer of mulch around the plants to keep the soil moist and prevent weeds from growing.

Watering:

• Strawberries need consistent moisture, especially when they’re flowering and fruiting. Aim to water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.
• Avoid overhead watering—water directly at the base of the plant to prevent diseases like mold or rot.

Feeding:

• Strawberries aren’t heavy feeders, but they do enjoy some nutrients. Add compost or a balanced fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.
• Don’t over-fertilize! Too much nitrogen will give you lots of leaves but fewer berries.

Sunlight:

• Strawberries thrive in full sun (6-8 hours daily). If you notice they’re not producing many fruits, check if they’re getting enough light.
• If you live in a really hot climate, afternoon shade can help protect them during the hottest part of the day.

Pinching off runners:

• Strawberries send out “runners” (long stems with baby plants at the end). If you want bigger, juicier berries, pinch these off to direct energy into fruit production instead of spreading.
• If you want more plants, you can let a few runners root in new pots or spots.

Weed control:

• Keep the area around your strawberries weed-free. Weeds compete for nutrients and water, which can slow down your strawberry growth.
• The mulch you added earlier will help prevent weeds, but keep an eye out and remove any that pop up.

When to harvest:

• Strawberries are ready to pick when they’re fully red (or yellow, depending on the variety) and smell sweet.
• The fruit should come off easily when you gently tug it. If it resists, give it a few more days.
• Harvesting usually starts about 4-6 weeks after the plants flower.

How to pick strawberries:

• Gently grasp the berry and pinch the stem just above the fruit. Try not to squeeze the berry itself to avoid bruising.
• Check your plants every couple of days because strawberries ripen quickly once they start turning color.

Storing strawberries:

• Fresh strawberries are best eaten within a day or two. Store them in the fridge, but don’t wash them until you’re ready to eat—they’ll go bad faster if wet.
• If you have a big harvest, you can freeze strawberries by washing, hulling, and laying them flat on a baking sheet before transferring to freezer bags.

Tip: If birds are snacking on your strawberries before you can pick them, cover the plants with netting or floating row covers to protect your crop.

Q: Why are my strawberries small?

A: Small berries could be due to poor soil nutrients, lack of water, or overcrowding. Make sure your plants have enough space, water, and nutrients. Pinching off runners can also help redirect energy to fruit production.

Q: My strawberries are rotting on the plant. What’s wrong?

A: This could be due to too much moisture near the fruit. Always water at the base of the plant and use mulch to keep the berries off the damp soil. Also, avoid overhead watering.

Q: Can I grow strawberries in a hanging basket?

A: Absolutely! Hanging baskets are great for strawberries because they keep the fruit off the ground and allow good air circulation. Just make sure the basket has good drainage and water regularly.

Q: Do strawberries come back every year?

A: Yes, most strawberry varieties are perennials, meaning they’ll come back year after year. However, they may produce less fruit after the first year, so it’s a good idea to replace older plants every few years.

Q: Why are my strawberry leaves turning yellow?

A: Yellow leaves can be caused by overwatering, underwatering, or nutrient deficiencies. Check your watering schedule and consider adding compost or a balanced fertilizer to boost nutrients.